Once that was done, rather than start sealing up the seams like the last one, I opted coat the whole of it in Smooth-On's Epsilon.
It's also self-leveling, though you'll still need to sand down some of the rougher spots and drips. Afterward, you can treat it as any other mold master: start slinging the Bondo!
Not a perfect process, as I didn't want to sand the whole way through the Epsilon and, as I was slowly learning, about the same amount of time versus cost compared to making a helmet mold master in the "conventional" manner. Once that was done though, it was time for some silicone! I used bondo to fill in all the open spots on the mouth and the cheeks, then got to work.
I learned a ton in this step. Firstly, even for a sticky, brush on silicone, this stuff drips like there's no tomorrow. I swear, half of what I put on for the first two or three thin coats ended up on the bench or the floor. Easy clean up, but for a guy like me without a ton of money, it felt like I was dripping dollar bills. Once I got the registration keys on (made by pouring some of the silicone into spare cups), I also learned that I wasn't waiting quite long enough as I watched them slowly slide off. I eventually got those to stay.
Lasty, I learned about the thickening agent Thi-Vex. It thickens the silicone enough so that the big thick coat(s) at the end don't drip off like the earlier coats do. Because I had used all of my Rebound to cover the dripping helmet, I had to order another pack of it - this time with the Thi-Vex - in order to cover the still-thin mold and strengthen it. With that done, finally I could move on to the really annoying bit.
Due to the shape, I opted to make the fiberglass mothermold in 3 parts: two sides and the back. Originally I was going to do two, but realized that 3 made it easier to remove the silicone from the mold without as much risk of tearing it or smashing the casting inside. Using one of many helpful tips online, I used an empty soda can box, cut up into smaller pieces, for the mohawk that would be screwed together. If I had enough time I would have preferred to cut one out of wood or MDF, which would have been stronger, but alas I did not and had to do this on a tighter budget. It still worked though.
In hindsight, I should have taken better care to do it on the cheek bits, but that's a tale for another day. All in all, did it succeed?
Thankfully, with a bit of carefully applied heat, I was mostly able to clean up the warped bits.
I also discovered that, unlike the 300, it doesn't stick to itself if you try to add a new batch to an already fully-cured one.
Anyway, the one I finished for the client went similarly to painting up my other builds, just with a few added steps you don't normally need with the foam. It was also easier, since I didn't have to worry about putting on the cheek or buckle attachments.
Done and done!
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